Wide Open Space - Big Bend National Park
Cathy Dompier | Published on 2/15/2025
We walked across the Rio Grand!
It took us awhile, but my husband Dave and I finally made a visit to Big Bend National Park. We had been putting it off in favor of other, closer destinations. Then I read that the Chiso’s Basin Visitor Center and surrounding lodge, restaurant, campgrounds and trail access were closing in May of 2025 for not 1, but 2 years. These particular park area buildings are being completely rebuilt. Fear not, the park will be open; and there are other areas to see.
Big Bend National Park (NP) is exactly that; BIG and on a “bend”. The park is 14th largest of the US National Parks, covering 1252 square miles and 801,163.21 acres. The “Bend” in the name refers to the great U-turn that the Rio Grande river makes through remote southwest Texas. Check it out on a map. The Rio Grande corridor is a migration highway of species that travel through the desert, making it an animal and birders paradise. The river, the desert, and the mountains provide ample diversity for plant and animal life. We saw javelina, roadrunners, deer, jackrabbits, and a few types of birds. We never ran across any cougar or black bear.
Preparation is key when visiting Big Bend. Small towns nearby the park offer supplies, fuel, and small grocery and camping/hotel options. Cell service is not reliable inside the park and many roads are 4-wheel drive only. But don’t let that stop you. In our two days in the park we hiked the Santa Elena Canyon (a MUST DO), Burro Springs Trail, the Window Trail, and Boquillas Canyon (short walk). We drove the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, stopping at points with grand views for miles! We wanted to visit the Hot Springs, but ran out of time. There is a very interesting Fossil Exhibit that is open 24 hours and if you enjoy star gazing you should definitely venture into the park after dark.
The park headquarters is at Panther Junction and fuel and water are available, as well as a camp store. Smaller visitor centers are Castolon on the west side, Rio Grande Village on the east side, and Chisos Basin is Central in the park. Longer hike trailheads are located in the Chisos Basin.
There is one Port of Entry to cross the river into Mexico. It was closed the day we were there, but a small town of Boquillas Del Carmen is on the other side, passports required. Speaking of the river, it is not as Grande as it was in the 1600’s. It is a 1900 mile journey to the Gulf of Mexico; beginning as spring water and snow melt in the southern Rockies of Colorado. Some of the water is from the Rio Conchos that begins in Mexico and flows into the Rio Grande near Presidio, TX. Yes, we found a place near the Santa Elena Canyon where we could walk across, and quickly return. We live life on the edge!
For those with more time, there is the Big Bend Ranch State Park nearby that I read was worth a visit. We went down highway 67 from Marfa to 170 and drove the south border of this park (and the US border). The road is on the border of the Rio Grande and we could look across to Mexico as we drove.
So, if a visit to BBNP is in your future, I suggest to try and visit before May of 2025; especially if you want to experience hikes in the Chisos Mountains near that visitor center. Keep your eye on the BBNP website for latest information,
https://www.nps.gov/bibe/index.htm. I did read that some of the more popular hikes in the area will have alternative trailheads during some times of the project work. Another source for more information is
https://visitbigbend.com.